We all know that vaping has been an enjoyable approach to quitting smoking and that countless smokers have leaned on vaping to break the habit. However, many “could be” long-term quitters run into two basic hurdles that could inevitably lead them back to smoking: the inefficiency of cheap vape pens, and the ridiculous complexity that comes with your modern box mod.
Let’s face the facts: It’s quite the jump—going from using just a plain ol' lighter to get your fix, to now having to choose your e-liquids, clean the tank, change the coils, and choosing the right wattage for your tank. Cheap vape pens aren’t without their own problems, too. Unfortunately, many people try to transition from smoking with an affordable vape pen, not knowing that they’re sacrificing quality and longevity by holding onto just a few extra bucks.
The solution, of course, is to find the right middle ground. Unfortunately, this didn’t exist for the longest time. But thanks to ingenuity and necessity, POD systems have risen to save the day, and you probably familiar with big brands like Juul and Suorin.
If you’ve tried both cigalikes and pen-styled vapes to no avail, or feel intimidated by all the extra nobs and buttons that come with a standard box mod—maybe it’s time to give one of these portable POD systems a shot.
What is a POD System?
POD or “ultra-portable systems” are essentially the middle-ground between your simple gas station vape pen and a $100+ box mod. The design is similar to that of a cartomizer, but with much more versatility in terms of liquid-capacity and power.
The fundamental difference between the traditional cartomizer and an ultra-portable POD system is that the POD systems are equipped with cartridges like JUUL Replacement Pods, that contain the coil, wick, and the e-juice–essentially everything you need.
These portable systems are also more powerful. While a vape pen or cigalike battery caps out at around 180mAh, ultra-portable devices can reach upwards of 300mAh.
Perhaps most impressively, POD systems are fairly cheap. For around thirty bucks, you can get scoop up what’s considered to be a high-end ultra-portable POD system, whereas lower-end models will cost as little as $15.
Pros and Cons
Like any vaping approach, each path comes with its own benefits and drawbacks. In every case, your choice should be determined by your very own specific preferences and nothing else. Let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons of these ultra-portable vaporizers and see how they compare to the average device.
One thing that sets ultra-portable devices like Juul apart from your standard vape pen is that they’re incredibly easy to use. What’s more, POD systems are often pre-filled with higher quality e-liquids that appeal to the seasoned vape veterans.
Box mod users typically prefer e-liquids that have a higher VG ratio, since that’s what most sub-ohm tanks are built for. POD systems are equally capable of vaping those thicker e-liquids, thus giving vapers a broad range of unique vaping options with little—if any—sacrifice to the overall experience.
However, most new and beginning vapers will be attracted to the simplicity of the traditional vape pen that still dominates the market today—if only for the fact that they’ve made an impression on the public and the vape community for many years now.
The best news for all users is that, despite their smaller size, some ultra-portable cartridges are equipped with sub-ohm coils—a massive step up in technology that’s still totally inaccessible for your average everyday vape pen.
Stronger Nicotine Hit
A major advantage for newbies that’s offered by your everyday vape pen (at the expense of high-quality e-liquid) is their functionality with e-liquids that are mixed with ridiculously high nicotine levels. Since the average sub-ohm tank is suggested for use with liquids that offer nicotine between 3-6mg, beginning vapers most likely will not get enough nicotine from the standard box mod/sub-ohm tank setup. Despite this lack in flavor, there are still many vapers out there that prefer higher nicotine levels in their sub-ohm tanks. What works for them might not work for you, and vice-versa.
Ultra-portable devices can carry much more nicotine. This is due to their use with nicotine salts – an all-new delivery method that allows for higher concentrations of nicotine without sacrificing smoothness or flavor. In fact, a 24mg mixture of nicotine in a vape pen will almost surely provide an unpleasant vaping experience for the newbie. That same newbie could try a 50mg mixture of nicotine salts and not even bat an eye. Such is the joy of nicotine salts.
Ah yes, the dreaded leaky tank. This is a problem that plagues vapers from all walks of life. As if carrying the juice bottles around wasn’t already bothersome enough, there’s also the possibility that a cap loosens up or liquid seeps through the smallest of openings.
Well, not with ultra-portable POD systems. Since these bad boys are pre-built and use disposable cartridges, there’s literally zero chances of running into the same leaky nonsense that comes with your average tank when using a non-defective POD system.
While not all ultra-portable devices conform to this design, many POD systems are activated by your breath. Granted, a single button isn’t exactly rocket science, but to a smoker looking for an authentic experience, what could be more authentic than inhaling without any other effort?
Compare that to a box mod, where the firing button is the least of your worries. Sure, you’ll probably find some basic vape pens that work the same way, but without the quality or power of a POD device.
Limited Flavor Selection
One of the best things about vaping is the vast and nearly infinite marketplace of e-liquids to choose from. There are literally endless combinations of flavors at your fingertips, spanning across hundreds of different brands and they’re growing every day. It’s something that vapers from all walks of life can enjoy—except for POD users, that is.
The problem (currently) with ultra-portable devices is that their unique designs require specific cartridges. This means that we’re limited by the flavor selection that the manufacturers provide. So if you see a POD system that you’d love to try, but are unimpressed with its compatible flavor selection (or vice-versa), then you’re out of luck.
Of course, this could all be old news some day and manufacturers will give generic companies a shot, but it’s hard to know exactly how long and we don’t suggest holding your breath. However, with the seemingly exponential growth of the the vape industry since 2006, odds are that the smaller companies will get their chance sooner than later.
Smaller Liquid Capacity
Obviously, smaller vaporizers will carry less liquid. Try to imagine forcing a 4mL tank onto a vaporizer that’s just a little larger than a cigarette – not going to happen.
While the tiniest POD devices can contain less than 1mL (which still amounts to roughly one pack of cigarettes), some of the larger POD systems can hit the 2mL mark.
Lower Battery Life
Although the battery life of these ultra-portable POD systems is higher than its smaller cousins, it simply cannot hold a candle to the big leagues. Box mods will always win the day when it comes to longevity. A typical ultra-portable device will get you about two to three hours of mild use on a full charge.
This won’t be as big of a problem for a box mod user, who might just carry the POD for portability while out on the town. But if you’re exclusively using a POD device and nothing else, you may need to do so sparingly depending on where you’re at, so be sure to keep it charged.
Overall, ultra-portable POD systems do a great job of bridging the gap between beginners and veterans, while simultaneously appealing to both. Although there are some minor gripes to deal with, they’re fairly easy to overlook.
If you’ve been let down by vape pens or want something more low-key when out in public, you’ve got nothing to lose by trying out a POD.
2018-03-29 15:54:34 -0500
2018-03-29 15:55:00 -0500
What is a POD System? Beginners Guide to Ultra Portable POD Systems
2018-03-29 15:54:34 -0500
2018-03-29 15:55:00 -0500
To a moderately experienced vaper, “squonking” probably sounds foreign. But for any vaping veteran out there who’s been around the block, squonking represents a new and innovative experience for vape enthusiasts everywhere.
However, it’s not all fun and games. While this method is certainly revolutionary, it requires surgical precision. When performed incorrectly, squonking can literally blow up in your face.
So what is squonking? Let’s take an in-depth look at this method and see whether or not this new and exciting vape trend is right for you.
What is Squonking?
Simply put, squonking is a recently popularized, innovative vaping method. Thanks to bottom-feeding atomizers, this recent innovation turns the conventional rebuildable dripping atomizer system on its head. For drippers, squonking is a great way to expand their horizons.
Squonking vs. Dripping
Conventional dripping needs no introduction. Organic cotton is pulled through a heating element. You drip a few drops of E-Juice onto the cotton until fully saturating the wick. A few puffs later, the wick is dry and you need to drip some more e-liquid onto the cotton wick – rinse and repeat.
While RDA’s are considered to be vastly superior to your run-of-the-mill disposable pre-built coil (in terms of cloud production and flavor) constantly dripping e-juice onto your cotton wick is both inconvenient and time consuming. Squonking addresses these issues and provides a much more intuitive vaping experience.
At its core, squonking uses the same mechanics, with one major difference. Instead of dripping, squonk mods rely on an internal e-juice reservoir that can store significant quantities of e-juice. With a squeeze of the bottle, the e-liquid is fed upwards through the mod and directly into the RDA. The result is essentially a hybrid design between a standard mod and an RDA.
The liquid draws directly from the internal bottle, straight into the RDA – similar to conventional vaping.
Keep in mind, however, that squonking doesn’t only require the purchase of a brand-new mod. It also calls for a specific RDA that has a feeding hole drilled into the center post for liquid to pass through (see below).
Although similar to standard vaping, squonking isn’t quite as automated as your traditional device. Transferring the e-juice from the bottle inside to the RDA requires a bit of a helping hand.
Unlike your typical sub-ohm tank where the cotton wick is soaked automatically, squonk mods operate a little bit differently.
You’ll notice from this picture that the clear, plastic tank is exposed through the casing. There are two reasons for this.
First, you need to see how much liquid remains in the tank.
Second, users have to squeeze the container in order to force the juice through the small feeding tube and into the RDA.
After you gently press on it, watch the liquid slowly feed upwards into the RDA, then release. The container will cave in for a few moments. Once the bottle regains its shape, the liquid has effectively made it up into the RDA and hopefully saturated the wick. Only then can you fire up the device.
You’ll know it’s time to squonk again when the flavor starts to feel muted, the wick is dry, or you’re started to get a burnt taste upon vaping. Interestingly enough, the word “squonk” is a verb that’s used to describe this squeezing action.
This simple act of squeezing a bottle is a very small price to pay when trying to avoid the tediousness of dripping without sacrificing a genuine RDA experience. It also prevents the need to carry your juice with you everywhere you go.
Sounds great, right? Well, not so fast.
One Fatal Flaw
We established that squonking makes dripping comparably seamless and convenient. So what on Earth could possibly be wrong with that? Well, there is one major disadvantage – but it’s a big one.
Those of you out there who have mastered the complex art of building your own coils have no-doubt learned the importance ohms law, voltage, wattage and electricity. If you’re curious about squonking, then we say “go for it”. But if you’re new to building (or vaping in general), then squonking is definitely not for you (yet).
Many aspiring vapers are painfully aware (some more painfully than others) of the dangers associated with incorrectly built or unregulated mods. We’ve heard of cases where these vapes have exploded and caused severe damage—not just to the users, but to those around that were unfortunately caught in their disproportionately large blasts. Consumers these days avoid this problem by buying brand name, factory-built devices and batteries that are from a reputable source.
Unfortunately, squonking is still in its infancy. The advanced nature of this niche means that vape companies really haven’t had a chance to embrace this new technology and meet its increasing demand. Consequently, many of the pre-built squonk mods on the market today are unregulated.
Further complicating matters, is that even seemingly legitimate components could be poorly made or – worse still – deliberately mislabeled. Many of unscrupulous overseas vendors have taken defective or incorrect batteries and slap fresh casing onto them. What may read as a 2100mah battery could really just be an old 1600mah battery in disguise.
To all you vapers out there that’d like to try squonking with your faces intact, use extra diligence and only buy batteries from reputable companies like Sony, Samsung or LG. Period. Stay away from the allure of saving a couple dollars with companies like Amazon or Ebay, as top-notch batteries are generally very cheap from reputable vape vendors. Saving a couple bucks with Amazon or Ebay is simply not worth the risk.
The Bottom Line
Vaping is an amazing technology that opened the door to innovation beyond anything we could’ve imagined. We always love to see new advances in this area, but adjustments bring new challenges.
Long story short, squonking makes the RDA experience much smoother. Just be very careful when jumping in and don’t try it until you’re completely ready. Be sure that you have a strong understanding of Ohm’s Law and vape safety when dealing with rebuildables.
2018-03-21 12:12:14 -0500
2018-03-21 13:35:00 -0500
What is Squonking? Beginners Vape Tutorial 101
2018-03-21 12:12:14 -0500
2018-03-21 13:35:00 -0500
If you’re among the millions of smokers that are trying to quit, odds are that you’ve considered vaping as a viable option. However, vaping can seem intimidating and complicated. As a beginner, it’s important to understand the basics before diving in.
It’s easy to see what the marketplace has to offer. When it comes to vaping, learning the “how should I vape?” is just as important as the “which device will work best for me?”. In other words, you should understand the two fundamental vaping styles before making that first purchase.
Today we’ll be covering the two basic vaping styles: Direct-to-lung (DTL) vaping and mouth-to-lung (MTL). Both of these inhalation methods provide their own unique set of advantages, but generally work best with specific vape juice and equipment.
Chances are, the device you end up purchasing won’t even be a conscious choice. Many vapers default to one approach or the other. But if you want to widen your horizons or don’t feel like you’re really enjoying your experience, switching styles might be just the thing.
That said, let’s take a look at the two different vape styles and see what’ll work best for you.
When MTL vaping, you suck the vapor into your mouth and let it linger for a moment before finally pulling down into your lungs. This should be easy for any former smoker to master, since it’s the most popular technique used when smoking cigarettes.
Because of its similarity to cigarette smoking, newer vapers prefer to use this method. Aside from simulating the action of smoking a cigarette, the overall sensation comes remarkably close. The burning or tingling in your throat (throat hit) is subtle, creating a smoother sensation when compared to the much harsher (and less authentic) direct-to-lung method.
Mouth-to-lung is also the best choice for people looking to experience the maximum flavor and minimum cloud creation. Since the vapor sits in your mouth for a moment, it gives your tongue a chance to really taste the nuanced undertones of your favorite flavors. The low cloud production of MTL vaping is also great when vaping in public places—or any spot that you don’t want others to be annoyed by massive vapor clouds.
If the mouth-to-lung vaping technique seems like it appeals to you, there are a few things you need to consider before getting started.
Equipment: If saving money is important to you (as it is for most of us), mouth-to-lung vaporizers—such as ‘vape pens’ or ‘cig-a-likes’—are generally dirt cheap and overqualified when it comes to getting the job done.
If you decide that you can’t be bothered by a small vape pen and want to use something more advanced, be sure that you’re running your mod on a lower wattage (no higher than 15-20 watts) and use a coil that’s 1.2 ohms or higher for the best possible MTL vaping experience.
Juice: When purchasing your e-juice, you’ll want to find a flavor that’’s combined with a higher PG content than VG ratio (for example: 40/60 VG/PG) is preferred by MTL vapers for two reasons. Generally speaking, an e-liquid flavor that’s mixed with a higher PG content will provide a punchier throat hit, thus simulating a harsher throat hit that’s similar to the sensation of smoking cigarettes.
Secondly, PG tends to carry flavor better than high VG e-liquids. Simply put, mouth-to-lung vapers will enjoy e-liquids that have a higher PG content because of its flavor-enhancing properties and the satisfying throat hit that comes with it.
Nicotine Strength: Mouth-to-lung vaping is also the preferred vaping style for those that need large amounts of nicotine to get the job done. Low-wattage devices combined with high-nicotine vape juice offers a tremendously smooth and flavor-filled vaping experience. Countless people have found that higher levels of nicotine are no longer necessary with this vaping method, and have successfully lowered their nicotine consumption in the long-term.
As the name implies, direct-to-lung inhalation is all about inhaling the vapor straight into the lungs. It’s essentially the same thing we do when we take a normal breath. For the recent ex-smoker, DTL vaping might be counter-intuitive if they’re trying to simulate the sensation of smoking cigarettes. If you’re one of those people, your best bet might be to avoid direct-to-lung vaping until you become more familiar with vaping.
Unlike MTL, direct-to-lung can get pretty intense. Depending on the nicotine content in the vape juice, a throat hit could be the furthest thing from smooth. Think back to the time you smoked your first cigarette and nearly coughed up a lung. After a while, you became less sensitive to it and were able to smoke comfortably. With vaping, it’s the same situation.
But let’s say you’re ready to change. Aside from a harsher hit (that will get smoother over time), don’t expect as much from the flavor department. This doesn’t mean the flavor will be muted or bad, but just not as intense.
One final thing to consider is that direct-to-lung vaping will lead to significantly increased cloud production. Granted, this can be loads of fun if you’re into “cloud chasing” and mastering tricks; however, it’s far from discreet in public, so be polite to those around you and keep your distance from other people.
Getting Set Up
The things you need for a proper direct-to-lung experience are as different from MTL as the technique itself. It’s important to have a proper setup if you want to get the best DTL vaping experience.
Equipment: The first thing you’ll need is a sub-ohm tank and a device that can put out some decent wattage. You may have to fork over a pretty penny (upwards of $100 or more) for a solid regulated box mod setup, but there are many unregulated tube-shaped sub-ohm products (tube mods) that’ll run you $50 or less.
There will also be a noticeable difference when it comes to the coils. While MTL coils are typically small and made with artificial fibers for wicks, sub-ohms tanks are loaded with organic cotton and feature significantly larger wicking ports. This allows the wick to saturate rapidly with e-juice, thus creating an almost non-stop flow of e-liquid to your coils and creating massive clouds of vapor.
Juice: The next thing you’ll want to do is grab some e-liquid that’s high in Vegetable Glycerine. As we mentioned earlier, high VG e-liquid is thick like molasses and will be best suited for the cloud production DTL vapers are looking for. At the very least, you should be looking at scooping up vape juice that’s 70% VG or higher.
Nicotine: Here’s where things get dicey – and why direct-to-lung vaping isn’t necessarily suggested for newbies that are making the transition over from the stinky sticks. Because of the sheer amount of vapor that’s being inhaled, nicotine levels above 6mg should not be considered when focusing on DTL vaping. Anything higher than 6mg for the newbie will most likely produce a painful burning sensation in the throat and lungs, thanks to the incredible amount of vapor and it's high nicotine content. A respectable rule of thumb is to cut the nicotine content in half when switching from a MTL vaporizer to a sub-ohm direct-to-lung setup—and even half might not be enough. Better to start small and work your way up.
We’ve covered a lot, so let’s quickly lay out the differences between mouth-to-lung and direct-to-lung.
Mouth to Lung
Preferable for new vapers
Best simulates smoking a cigarette
Smoother throat hit
Lower cloud production
Can use high nicotine
Best with high PG liquids
Doesn’t feel like an authentic cigarette
Harsher (but becomes smoother with experience)
Lower nicotine content suggested
Works best with high VG liquids
Used with sub-ohm setups
NEW: SuorinNEW: Starbuzz Carbine Hookah
2018-03-01 16:48:16 -0600
2018-03-11 21:38:00 -0500
Mouth to Lung vs Direct to Lung Vape Guide
2018-03-01 16:48:16 -0600
2018-03-11 21:38:00 -0500
Like almost any technology, trend, or hobby, vaping has very basic roots. We've come a long way since the days of cheap gas station cig-a-likes and vape pens that were feeding us crude, PG-laden e-liquids. However, bigger isn't always better. Sure, a lot of us love the feeling, flavor, and cloud production of a high VG e-juice in a sub-ohm tank. But for those, us that are only interested in nicotine consumption, using high VG-based e-liquids is kind of like owning a Ferrari—flashy for most, but not practical for all.Virtually everyone that vapes started vaping as a means of quitting smoking. Graduating to the big leagues of 100-watt devices and 5mL tanks should be a choice, not a necessity. Sadly, this means that people who prefer a smaller, cheaper, and a more discreet vaporizer will have to settle for a vape pen that is unpleasant overall—or fork over tons of cash and navigate a tiny supercomputer. Nicotine salts, however, seem to be a magic solution - the veritable penicillin to cure some of the ailing vapers out there. That said, let's have a look at this brand-new innovation and see where – and who – it fits in the vaping world.
Popular POD Devices: JUUL Starter Kit, Suorin Drop Starter Kit, Suorin Air and Aspire Breeze 2 All-In-One Starter Kit
Freebase Nicotine: The Current Standard
There's a fundamental difference between the conventional "freebase" nicotine we use in our e-liquids and the newer "salts" that have been quickly making headlines. It is this difference that, not only classifies it separately but also creates an entirely new experience.To better understand what nic salt juice is, let's compare them to their big brother, freebase nicotine. Without getting too technical, freebase is the purest form of nicotine and is the default "go-to" for most manufacturers. This nicotine solution is simply added to a mixture of vegetable glycerin (VG) and propylene glycol (PG) which "carry" the nicotine with them when vaped. It's also what we use in nicotine replacement therapies—like gums, patches, sprays, and lozenges. Furthermore, freebase has been the norm in cigarettes for decades, thanks to Phillip Morris of Marlboro back in the 1960s. He found that "freebasing" nicotine-paired with ammonia delivered a significantly larger amount of nicotine (which did wonders for keeping customers hooked). Since we're trying to offer an effective nicotine replacement in vape juices, it only makes sense that we use the best form available.
So we've established that freebase-nicotine is nicotine at its purest. If that's the case, then why would vapers want something that's not as inherently effective? Like Phillip Morris's little freebase trick, the answer can be found in chemistry.
What are Nicotine Salts?
At its core, nicotine salts are comprised of the same exact nicotine that's found in its natural state within the tobacco leaf. If this form of nicotine was added to the liquid that we vape, we'd need to vape it at extremely high temperatures for the nicotine solution to be effective, and it still wouldn't be as easily absorbed (bioavailable) as freebase nicotine. Similarly, like freebase, nic salt juice needs some modification too. The key here is benzoic acid.
A Quick Chemistry Lesson
We won't try to overwhelm you with too much jargon, so let's stick with the basics: pH and alkalinity. Freebase nicotine has a higher pH, which leads to increased alkalinity. This dramatic increase in alkaline causes a harsher throat-hit, thus causing people to vape at smaller amounts than they may need.Benzoic acid has the opposite effect. It lowers the pH levels of nicotine, reducing alkalinity in the process. The end result is a much smoother vaping experience. Furthermore, this allows the mixture to be vaped at lower temperatures in cheap vape pens and cig-a-likes with higher concentrations of nicotine. For instance: vape juices mixed with nicotine salts – while less potent – can reach nicotine levels as high as 50mg. Try vaping something like that in your traditional sub-ohm tank/PG-mixture and let us know when your lungs stop burning.
Advantages and Disadvantages
Nicotine salts have pros and cons. However, what could be seen as a disadvantage to some will, in fact, be an advantage to others. Let's explain what we mean.
Satisfaction: Many vapers who try conventional liquids for the first time often find that they don't get the same satisfaction or "punch" from their nicotine. What's more, it may not be enough to satisfy their cravings.Smoother nicotine hit: A huge turn-off for many "would-be" vapers is that conventional e-liquids are too harsh, and nicotine is to blame. Cigarette companies use anesthetics like menthol or eugenol to cover-up and mask the harshness. Vape juices don't, so the smoother feeling of nicotine salt liquids makes a huge difference.Less flavor impact: Those of us who kicked the habit and prefer nicotine-free e-liquids may notice a marked difference in flavor, despite smoking the same product. This is because freebase nicotine affects the liquid's overall flavor. Nic salt juice has next-to-no effect in this area, leading to a richer, flavorful, and more enjoyable vaping experience.Cheaper: Let's face it—an efficient sub-ohm tank or box mod is significantly more expensive than a tiny little vape pen, as well as the many premium e-liquids that go into the vape pen. If all you need is an inexpensive and discreet vaping experience that helps you get just the right amount of nicotine, then salts are for you.
Too much for some: While heavy smokers need a heavy dose of nicotine, lighter smokers can make do in the 3-12mg nicotine range. This also happens to be the ultimate sweet spot for sub-ohm devices. As a result, people can use smooth, high-VG e-juices in their sub-ohm tank and feel completely content with the experience they get.Fewer options: Nicotine salts are limiting because you'll generally have to stick to vape pens and pods like JUUL Replacement Pods. The more traditional mods and sub-ohm tanks allow for nearly endless tank/mod combinations—each pair allowing for their own unique cloud production and flavor experiences. Not to mention the coil combinations and styles of the more advanced rebuildable atomizers – you get the idea.Lower fun factor: A great way to describe freebase juices compared to nicotine salts is "fashion over function" (again, think Ferrari vs. smart car). Nicotine salts are the perfect choice if you need a strong dose of nicotine and prefer a more cigarette-like experience.
Are Nicotine Salts Right for You?
This is where things get tricky, and only you will know the answer. So when you're deciding what to do, ask yourself the following questions:
Am I a heavy smoker (one or more packs a day)?
Do I want a more genuine smoking experience, or am I looking for something new?
Will I want smooth vapor and high nicotine?
Do I need a stronger or more subtle nicotine "punch" (buzz)?
Is discretion important, or are massive clouds my thing?
How much money do I initially want to spend?
These are just guidelines. Starting off with a small device and using nicotine salts is a good approach, and you can always switch to high-VG/lower-nicotine sub-ohm setups as you wean yourself off and start to branch out. In fact – salt or no salt – it's better to grasp the basics with a simple vaporizer before navigating through the different types of coils, tanks, and settings.The safest bet is to ask a knowledgeable vape shop owner. Remember, he or she was once in the same boat – a smoker looking for a better way out.
NEW: Suorin DropNEW: Suorin Air
2018-02-23 13:40:22 -0600
2018-02-26 23:59:00 -0600
What are Nicotine Salts? Beginner's Guide to Salt E-Liquid
2018-02-23 13:40:22 -0600
2018-02-26 23:59:00 -0600
Today we’ll be taking a look at tank maintenance and going over a few simple steps you can follow to get your favorite tanks looking and tasting brand new! Maybe you enjoy vaping only one flavor. Maybe you like to rotate several flavors throughout your tank. In either case, it’s important to clean your tank on a regular basis, but why?
Ghosting - flavor ghosting happens when you switch up the e-liquid flavors inside the tank without properly cleaning the tank first. The residual taste of the first flavor lingers in the background, even though you’re using a brand-new e-liquid. Not only is this unpleasant, but you’re doing each flavor a disservice by combining two flavor-profiles that were not meant to be together. In short—clean your tank before switching up the e-juice to get the best possible flavor.
Like-new vape experience
If you want your tank to perform at its peak-potential, your tank needs to look like it has potential! Gunky residue inside the tank is an unfortunate consequence of time and vape juice. Put simply: Time + Vape Juice = Gunk (and it’s unavoidable). Vegetable Glycerine is a core component in all vape juice, and if left unchecked, over time the gunky VG buildup will start to take its toll on your tank. These affects are, but not limited to:
Diminished flavor production
Poor atomizer performance
So stay on top tank maintenance to vape at your tank’s peak potential!
Foreign objects in the tank
One of the most underrated reasons to maintain your tank is to clean out any pocket lint or germs that may have snuck in there. Mouths can be a dirty place, and it’s not too farfetched to assume that many of us have accidentally dripped some spit into our tank while vaping. What’s more, think about all of the bits and pieces of pocket-paraphernalia that could have made its way into our tanks and into our e-juice. Yuck! So lets look at what you can do to properly clean your tank and ensure you’re getting the best possible vaping experience.
What you will need:
Cotton Swabs/Toothbrush (Optional)
First, you’ll want to get rid of any e-juice that’s still inside the tank. Once the tank is emptied, go ahead and disassemble the tank (throw away your old coil) and begin placing each individual piece of the tank into a bowl of warm water. Depending on how long it’s been since the last time you’ve cleaned your tank, you may want to add a little bit of hand-soap to your bowl of water for a little extra-kick of cleaning power. Stir the pieces of the tank around the bowl with your finger and make sure the water is touching every square millimeter of the tank.
Next, fill up a 2nd bowl or container with equal parts water/vodka and transfer the pieces of the tank into the new vodka solution (Note: If you used soap in the previous step, make sure you rinse the soap off of the tank before you place the pieces in the vodka water). The vodka water will help disinfect the tank thoroughly and add a little extra shine to the Stainless Steel sections of the tank. Allow the tank at least 5 minutes to sit in the vodka solution to disinfect completely.
Now you’re going to rinse the tank one last time to wash away any of the residual alcohol, then grab a toothbrush or a cotton swab and begin cleaning the threaded areas of the tank. Simply take your toothbrush or cotton swab and lightly brush away any excess grime that’s still on the threads. When the threads look nice and clean, grab your cloth/paper towel and begin drying off each piece of the tank individually.
4. Now that the tank is completely dry, go ahead and install the new coil, and then reassemble and fill the tank.
If you do not have any alcohol laying around, you can skip step two and still get like-new results from these simple cleaning methods.
Hopefully now your tank is looking spotless and delivering flavor like it was when it was brand-new! Depending on how often you vape, you may want to set aside one day per-week for tank cleaning to be sure that you’re getting the best possible vaping experience with each and every vape. Cleaning any vape tank should be fast and painless, and will only continue to get easier as time goes on. Remember- a clean tank is a happy tank, and a happy tank will produce the best flavor!
Vape safe and enjoy!
2017-10-31 23:29:35 -0500
2017-11-01 13:06:00 -0500
Tutorial: How to clean your Vape Tank [SMOK TFV8 TFV12 Series Tanks]
2017-10-31 23:29:35 -0500
2017-11-01 13:06:00 -0500
Whether you are new to vaping or a seasoned veteran, our top 7 countdown provides a quick refresher for battery safety, tank maintenance, maximizing your favorite E-Juice’s flavor potential and much, much more! Dive into these hottest vaping tips and don’t forget to share some of your own tips in the comment section below!
Bonus: Download a free infographics that will show you all these Vaping Tips and Tricks.
Unnecessary heat risk
With summer in full swing remember DO NOT leave your mods or your spare batteries inside your car unattended, The excessive heat can result in battery failure, fire, or worse.
Pocket Battery Safety
Always use a case to carry or store Batteries that aren't in use. Keys, change, or any metal objects can possibly cause the battery to short circuit and fail. Please vape safely!
Drink Plenty of Water!
Sometimes people that are new to vaping forget that you can get dehydrated. Drinking plenty of water will prevent this!
Make sure your batteries can handle your current resistance! When switching to a sub-ohm tank, first make sure your device can fire it safely. For example: You have a 200W capable device, and a tank that’s rated for best use at 150W. Just because your mod can handle the 150W rating doesn’t necessarily mean your batteries can. They might not have the correct amperage to safely deliver power to a low resistance coil. Be sure to check the specs first to save yourself a headache later.
Max VG E-Juice
Max VG E-Juice can have a hard time wicking in some RTAs and tanks. A drop or 2 of distilled water can help remedy this.
If your favorite E-Juice seems to be losing its flavor, it might be the dreaded “Vaper's tongue,” aka olfactory fatigue. To clear your palette, try sniffing (not inhaling) coffee beans. Staying hydrated and rotating different flavors frequently will help prevent this.
When using a device that requires more than one battery, always use new "married" sets of batteries to reduce the risk of battery failure.
Download PDF version of the Infographics
2017-07-11 16:53:50 -0500
2017-07-11 18:18:00 -0500
Top 7 Vaping Tips 2017 [Vape Tips and Tricks] Infographics
2017-07-11 16:53:50 -0500
2017-07-11 18:18:00 -0500
InfographicsVape TricksVaping Tips
You might think that the electronic technology involved in vaping is similar to the electronics involved in a smartphone or a flashlight, and for the most part, you would be right. The basic principles are the same. But then you notice that the batteries we’re using are a little more stout than the AA’s in your TV remote. Then you might see a news report where someone sets his backpack on fire with a mod, and you wonder, how? How does this happen with vaping but not with your MP3 player?
Here’s the thing: vaping requires power, and we don’t mean power like a portable Bluetooth speaker uses. We mean massive current. Vaping uses power like almost no other consumer electronic device, at a tremendous rate, meaning that there are serious risks. Newer devices have loads of safety features, but they can’t eliminate every possible way to abuse your gear. And that’s why we need to talk about safety.
As it has been for many years, the vaper’s battery of choice is the 18650 cell. That’s a size measurement, 18mm diameter and 65mm long. The 18650 comes in a lot of different varieties with a lot of different performance ratings. And vaping requires the best. When you factor in weight, longevity, price, and the ability to handle huge amperage, the 18650 owns every other type of battery, which is why you see them bundled into almost every high-powered electrical device you can buy, from computers to power tools to the Tesla automobile. We need to know how to use all this power, and how to make sure you aren’t pushing it too far. If you have been vaping for more than a couple of years, you probably know this. Back in the bad old days, we had to use mechanical mods to get decent vapor output, and a mechanical is basically just a tube with a switch. The only safety was usually just a button lock, and some didn’t even have that.Pretend you’re one of those old school vapers using a mechanical mod, and you need to figure out whether your setup is safe. Ultimately, this means you need to know that electricity won’t be drawn out of it too fast, like water being drained from a tank. If you drill a hole in a water tank and the water starts to spray out of it at high pressure, then the hole can widen and the tank could rupture. You want to avoid the electrical equivalent, which happens when a battery gets pushed too hard, causing too much heat to build up, rupturing the case and venting the battery.
So, how do you figure whether your build is going to draw too much amperage from your battery? Simple: it’s called math. You plug some numbers into an equation and calculate. But don’t worry! It’s not a tough problem. The equation only has three variables, so you just need to deal with two numbers in order to calculate the third. After you get used to it, the process is almost as easy as calculating a tip at a restaurant.
The equation goes like this: A=V/R. It means “amperage equals voltage divided by resistance”. It’s called Ohm’s Law.
An 18650 battery has two amperage limits. The first limit is the continuous rating, the amperage draw the battery can take at a constant rate until it runs out of power. The second limit is the pulse rating, which is the amperage draw it can take for a brief burst. You might be tempted to use the second rating, but this is how you push the envelope and get hurt and make the news and get the FDA involved. Use the continuous rating.
A fully charged battery is like a tank filled with water, meaning there is full pressure inside. Electrical pressure is called “voltage”. Most fully charged 18650 batteries have a voltage of 4.2, so use this number for safety purposes regardless of whether your batteries are fully charged at the moment or not.
Then all you need is the resistance, which you can figure out by using an ohmmeter. Resistance is like the diameter of the pipe the water is running through. Coils that use thicker wire will have a lower resistance, for the same reason water pipes with bigger diameters can let more water flow. And because of some interesting magnetic field properties, coils that use more wraps will have a higher resistance. We will assume you use Kanthal A1 instead of temp control wire, as Kanthal has a simple, constant resistance. Temp control requires advanced circuitry and can’t be done on a mechanical.
Say you wrap your own coils on an RDA, and you run a dual coil build made up of 24 gauge wire wrapped 7 times around a 3mm bit. You will probably have a resistance around 0.2 ohms, low sub-ohm territory.
Now, do the math. 4.2 divided by .2 gives you 21. So use a battery with a continuous rating of 21 amps.
It’s that simple. If you want it to be even simpler and you aren’t building sub-ohm, try using our Variable Voltage and Vaping Power Chart or Vape Safety Calculator
When you go looking for high-amp 18650’s, you won’t have as many choices as you might think. The Samsung 25R and the LG HE2 and HE4 continue to dominate the market, although for multi battery setups, the LG HG2 brownies are rising fast, mostly due to their 3000mAh endurance. The Sony VTC4 and VTC5 used to be the most sought after due to their extremely high continuous power rating of at least 30 amps, and still work very well, particularly in mechanical mods. These batteries come highly recommended. Batteries from Panasonic are good quality but none of them have a higher continuous rating than 10 amps.21 amps is fairly standard for vapers and that’s a lot of power for any portable electronic device, so it’s very important to get a good battery. Even if your mod uses the latest safety features, they are designed with high-amp batteries in mind and they can still draw too much current from a battery that’s below specification.
Almost everything else we see on the market, especially batteries specifically marketed for vapers – Imren, Efest, SubOhmCell, Vamped – is a relabeled version of these three brands, and we strongly suspect that some of them are factory seconds that tested below spec. Those are still far better than using a battery with a name like Trustfire or Ultrafire, either of which will probably start a fire and you should keep it away from your vape.
No matter which high-amp battery you choose, you need to keep an eye on the condition of the wrapping. An 18650 with no wrap is dangerous, because the entire outside surface acts like a negative contact and accidental firing becomes way too easy. Don’t use batteries with torn up wrappers! Get them rewrapped or buy new ones. You can expect to buy new ones after about 8 months or 200 charge cycles anyway, as they wear out and you will notice they don’t hang on like they used to.
To extend their life, use a quality charger. Efest and Nitecore make some of the best on the market. They have circuitry to make sure your batteries don’t get overcharged or undercharged, and they charge faster than the built in charge circuitry most mods use. Avoid the cheap single bay chargers which plug directly into the wall outlet instead of having a cord. They tend to only charge your batteries to about 90%, which will cut their lifespan.
The last point you need to keep in mind is that nearly every vaping device has some sort of lock on it to keep you from firing it accidentally. If you’re going to carry it in your pocket, use the lock! Even with a ten second cut-off, carrying an unlocked mod in your pocket can result in firing it on and off as you walk or move around, getting your tank or RDA very hot, melting plastic and rubber parts, and maybe even combusting your pants. Trust us, that isn’t as much fun as it sounds.
That’s most of what you need to know, but if you ever have any doubts that what you are using is safe, ask the people at a reputable vape shop. Not only can this keep you out of the burn ward, it can keep critics of vaping from finding ammunition they use to make vaping out to be a public menace. Media outlets tend to run with any story that makes vaping out to be a hazardous choice, so any honest accident will probably end up adding fuel to the worst stereotypes we are in the middle of fighting right now. One mistake, and the good work of hundreds of activists and researchers trying to keep this industry alive can end up in the dumpster.
Vape safe and enjoy!
2016-07-18 10:50:45 -0500
2016-07-19 09:21:00 -0500
Tutorial: Vape Battery Safety and Tips
2016-07-18 10:50:45 -0500
2016-07-19 09:21:00 -0500
Battery SafetyGuides and TipsTutorial
After years of serious vaping, many of us became experts on the art of wrapping resistance wire around household objects to create a variety of different coils in every shape and size and gimmick. That seems like such a necessary skill, but looking back, it was bound to become obsolete eventually.
The NotchCoil from Jaybo wants you to believe that time has finally come. The company calls their new design revolutionary, and that’s not far off.
Unlike almost every other metal coil, the NotchCoil does not use wrapped wire at all. It’s made out of milled and cut steel plating, 316L stainless, allowing temp control or straight wattage power. The design was built to work in the Theorem tank, an interesting RTA in its own right, but they can also be purchased on their own and will fit in any RDA that will accept their impressive 5.5mm girth, just add cotton. If you run a Joyetech Cuboid Mini or Cubis setup, you can buy complete premade NotchCoil heads. That’s a smart move from Joyetech, jumping in early on this design. Prices are right in line with other pre-made coils on the market.
What’s so great about it? Jaybo promises everything your jaded heart desires, including perpetually burn-free hits, incredible flavor and vapor production, and unmatched durability. We found those claims to be a little exaggerated, but not by much. This is a great piece of tech.
Our first trial consisted of a NotchCoil set in its natural habitat, a Wismec Theorem. The smoothness immediately impressed everyone, and that smoothness would be a constant treat throughout testing. The Theorem holds less juice than most other tanks at 2ml, but the top-fed airflow design seemed especially well matched to the coil. Flavor is rich, although the claim that a NotchCoil produces as much flavor as a Clapton coil falls flat. It’s rich, but not that rich. Think of it as a single step below a Clapton or twisted wire build.
Next, the NotchCoil found its way into an RDA, namely a 25mm Goon. This taught us some lessons. First, when Jaybo says the coil is meant to run below 70 watts, they mean it. In fact, 70 watts is a bit much; a mild burning taste accompanies every draw. The single coil really belongs at 60 watts, and 50 watts gives up little in vapor production. Put two coils in, and 100 watts works beautifully.
That vapor production is very impressive. It’s not going to compete with a 20 gauge triple coil competition setup, but for everyday vaping, it absolutely rocks, because it gives you something which no other coil can match: efficiency. There’s a bit of physics at work here. You will notice that the NotchCoil is light, significantly lighter than a coil of similar diameter made with stainless wire. This is a good thing. Since the NotchCoil uses metal plate instead of wrapped wire, it can give you just as much surface area while having to heat significantly less mass. This saves you battery power, and means that a single NotchCoil produces very similar amounts of vapor as a typical hand-wrapped coil at about 80 watts. The drop from 80 watts to 60 watts means you can reduce your power consumption by a fourth, and your batteries will thank you for it. You could easily find yourself swapping those batteries out less often.
The NotchCoil never failed in any way, so we can’t argue with the reliability or consistency, either. Resistance was .24 ohm, a hundredth off of the .23 ohm the box advertises, and it never wavered, even as the coil was removed from one system and connected to another.
Great tech indeed. As a distinct product, the NotchCoil obviously works best in mid-power setups around that 50 to 60 watt mark, particularly with the Theorem tank. There are a lot of vapers looking for something like this, those who need consistently good performance with minimal hassle at a reasonable price point. They aren’t for the hardest hardcore cloud or flavor chasers, but that’s a niche market anyway. We wish the Theorem held more liquid, but it’s better to refill than to miss out on the excellent performance and expanded battery life you get using this setup.
As a concept, the NotchCoil design could be every bit as revolutionary as claimed as time goes on. You can easily imagine Jaybo expanding on the idea, creating 20 watt coils for beginners and 120 watt coils for cloud chasers that would waste the competition. The milled steel design makes unusual, high surface area shapes easy for mass production.
Right now, the biggest threat to this bright future is obviously the FDA. The NotchCoil design, like every other product destined for the vaping public, will have to undergo government testing to stay on the market after the new deeming regulations take full effect. Let’s hope that either those regulations get changed or that Jaybo can find a way to pay for the testing, because the NotchCoil gives a lot of future non-smokers a better, more accessible vaping experience.
2016-06-24 10:38:24 -0500
2016-06-24 13:29:00 -0500
Tutorial: What is a Notchcoil? Overview, benefits and review.
2016-06-24 10:38:24 -0500
2016-06-24 13:29:00 -0500
Welcome to Misthub’s Guide to different wires for building coils. Here we will discuss the differences between NiChrome, Ni-200, Titanium, Kanthal and Stainless Steel. Although these wires will all serve the same purpose, there are some fundamental differences that place them worlds apart. It is because of this that we’re going to dive deep into the science of these different types of wire and help you decide which wire will be best for you and your build.
Nickel-Chromium Vape Wire
NiChrome was the metal that started it all. It became well known and widely used back in 1905 when scientists realized it possessed anti-oxidizing properties, allowing the metal to function at high heats without being damaged through oxidation. NiChrome is a resistance wire that is popularly used in most electric heating elements, hot-wire foam cutters as well as household appliances and tools. Due to its ability to rapidly heat quickly with minimal ramp-up time, NiChrome has become the wire of choice for a vast majority of e-cigarette coils that come out of China as well as the preferred wire for cloud-chasing builds. When compared to Kanthal, NiChrome has a lower melting temperature as well as a lower maximum operating temperature. Simply put, this means that the life expectancy of a NiChrome coil will typically be shorter than that of a Kanthal coil. Worry not, these temperatures are negligible as most devices will not exceed the melting point of either metal. In comparison, they both support similar features despite NiChrome heating up faster and Kanthal having a longer life expectancy. If you suffer from a Nickel allergy, you may want to consider Kanthal as it is made from Iron-Chromim-Aluminum and does not contain Nickel.
Iron-Chomium-Aluminum Vape Wire
Kanthal resistance wire famously made its appearance in the e-cig world shortly after Nichrome and quickly became an instant-favorite amongst coil builders around the world. Due to its low cost, wide availability and the fact that it can be bought in multiple gauges, Kanthal wire provides endless combinations of different sized coils supporting different resistances for any style of vape. Kanthal has a slightly higher maximum operating temperature as well as a higher melting temperature than Nichrome, giving it a slightly longer lifespan than Nichrome. Some people claim that Kanthal wire puts off a slightly metallic taste due to the Iron composition, whereas others claim it does not. All in all, the functionality of Kanthal wire makes this an easy choice for beginners that are interested in learning how to build.
Pure Titanium Vape Wire
Titanium wire is still relatively new on the market and is used in many sub-ohm tank coil heads for Temperature Control. It is considerably stronger than Ni200, making it much easier to work with. The resistance of Titanium is about double that of Ni200, allowing you to use considerably less wraps compared to Nickel when reaching your target resistance. A concern worth noting for Titanium is the fact that it can heat up to a point of ignition. If the metal combusts, you will see a flame that no fire extinguisher can put out; in which case you just have to let it burn out. Also worth noting is the formation of Titanium Dioxide which can be harmful to your health if inhaled. The good news is that Titanium Dioxide only forms in temperatures around 1,200°F (600°C). This may seem like a lot, just remember that a brightly glowing orange coil can easily exceed temperatures up to 1,300°F. A simple solution is to not glow your coils and you’ll never have to worry about combustion or Titanium Dioxide. If you see any kind of white powder forming around your coil, please be sure to dispose of the wire and wrap a new coil. Titanium Dioxide is no joke and can produce some serious side-effects if ingested for an extended period of time. If you are unsure or have any doubt about your coil, simply throw it away and start a new.
Pure Nickel Vape Wire
Ni200 is made of pure Nickel and has an extremely high temperature coefficient. This is precisely the reason why the guys at Evolv (famous for their DNA mod chips) decided to use Ni200 wire for the first Temperature Control mod. Nickel wire is very soft and springy, making it more difficult to work with when compared to Kanthal or Titanium. When wrapping Nickel, it’s a good idea to space the wraps apart so the heat is evenly distributed throughout the length of the wire. If there are any wraps in the coil that are touching each other, you’ve created a potential hotspot that can cause the coil to short. Because of this, many people have started twisting the wire before they make their coil. This allows for equal heat distribution (if done correctly) with tight wraps; however, it can be time consuming. For this reason some people consider Ni200 to be problematic, whereas other people swear by it to be the best metal for Temperature Control devices.
Chromium-Nickel-Carbon Vape Wire
Stainless Steel is composed of Chromium-Nickel-Carbon and is a highly functional metal as it can be used for both wattage mode and temperature control (if the mod supports it). 316L Stainless Steel is a Medical Grade metal that is widely growing in popularity and quickly becoming the go-to wire for temperature control devices. Since Stainless Steel is still relatively new on the market, older mods may not have a temperature coefficient setting programmed to handle temperature control properly. Some mods offer a custom TCR mode, in which case you could use Stainless Steel coils in Temperature Control mode as long as you set the Temperature Coefficient properly. In comparison to Titanium, Stainless Steel feels much stronger and is easier to work with. The malleable features of Stainless Steel allow for easier building with minimal springiness. Stainless Steel is readily available and is also cheaper than Titanium.
As time goes on, the list of wires will increase and we will become more familiar with their properties. If the list becomes overwhelming, just ask yourself “am I going to use temperature control or will I stick with variable wattage?” This simple question will cut your work in half when choosing which wire you will vape with. Kanthal, Stainless Steel and Nichrome are the only wires (as of now) that can be used in wattage/variable wattage mode. Titanium, Ni200 (nickel) and Stainless Steel are the only wires that can be used (as of now) with Temperature Control. When wrapping wire, always refer to Ohm’s Law and build safely! Thanks for checking out Misthub’s Wire Tutorial, Vape On!
2016-03-21 20:27:15 -0500
2016-03-21 20:28:00 -0500
Tutorial: NiChrome vs Ni-200 vs Titanium vs Kanthal vs Stainless Steel Vape Wire
2016-03-21 20:27:15 -0500
2016-03-21 20:28:00 -0500
TutorialVape TanksVape Wire
Introducing a quick overview of Temperature Control Vaping. Are you tired of that horrible taste you get from a dry hit? Tired of burning the wick in your coil and having to replace it, and at the worst possible time too? Are you tired of vapes that are just too hot? If so, it sounds like Temperature Control Vaping might be right for you. Temperature Control Vaping seems to be the next step in harm reduction for nicotine users by creating a fool proof way of limiting the temperature of the coils preventing burnt wicks or dry hits or simply keeping it from getting hotter than you prefer. Here we will discuss this technology, what it is, and why we want it.
We strong recommend to use reliable and authentic vape batteries with your Temperature Control Vape Device and Vape Kit: Efest IMR 18650 LiMn 3000 mAh Battery Purple and Sony VTC6 18650 3000 mAh Battery
What Is Temperature Control Vaping:
The Temperature Control (TC) feature of your vaporizer allows you to pre-set a value in Celsius / Fahrenheit that your coil temperature will not exceed. When the TC feature detects that the coil hits your pre-set (temperature) value, it acts as a limiter and will adjust, restrict, or cut-off the power to the coil until the temperature falls below your pre-set temperature value. TC keeps your coil temperature at a fixed rate, no matter what your preferred vaping style is, whether it’s little inhales, big inhales, mouth to lung inhales, straight to the lung inhales or Olympic style chain vaping. The best analogy that I like to use is Temperature Control on your vaporizer (while vaping at a pre-set coil temperature, lightly or heavily) is very similar to Cruise Control on your automobile (while driving at pre-set speed, going uphill or downhill).
First Time Temperature Control Setup:
Setting up Temperature Control for the first time is a lot easier than you think, and most of what you already know about configuring your vaporizer will still apply when using the Temperature Control (TC) feature. The very first thing you need to do is make sure your vaporizer is set to the proper Temperature Control Mode for the type of coil you are going to use in your Tank, RBA, RTA, or RDA. Depending on your vaporizer, it may have a single TC Vape Mode that supports both Nickel (Ni) and Titanium (Ti) coils, or it may have a specific Temperature Control Mode that must be set to support either Nickel (Ni) or Titanium (Ti) coils individually. The second thing you need to do after attaching the tank to your vape mod is to “lock in the base resistance” of the coil while at room temperature. Locking in the base resistance of the coil at room temperature provides the Temperature Control Vaping feature with critical information needed to function properly. It is very important to note that this step is critical in the setup process, otherwise the base resistance will be incorrect and Temperature Control readings would be rendered inaccurate. At this point, you can now set the recommended wattage for the coil you are using (check recommended wattage rating for coil on manufacturers’ website). The last and final step is selecting a temperature that your coil should not exceed in Celsius or Fahrenheit. Find the latest and the greatest Temperature Control Vape Mods here.
Recommended Temperatures for TC Mod:
As with most vaporizer settings, it is always best to start low and work your way up, much like you did with the wattage, but this time it’s the maximum temperature of your coil that you’re setting. Common vaping temperatures are in the range of 200°C- 250°C / 392°F - 480°F, with the temperature usually set in increments of 5°C or 10°F. Since you now have control over the temperature of your coil, it is an easy task to dial-in that sweet spot on your favorite e-juice with relative ease. Your personal preference and taste will decide what temperature range works best for you, and since all e-juices are not created equal, the sweet spot will most likely vary from PG/VG blend to e-juice manufacturer.
Joules vs Wattage:
Some newer Temperature Control vaporizers now include an additional setting that allows you to choose either joules mode or wattage mode. So what exactly is a joule, and how does it compare to our familiar wattage setting? A joule is simply another way to measure energy. To be exact, a joule is 1 amp passing through a resistance of 1 ohm per second. 1 watt equals 1 joule per second. 40 W for 1 second = 40 J 40 W for 3 seconds = 120 J So what does this mean for vaping? Since this is a fairly new measurement in vape devices, some vape mods might differ from others, but the ones that we are familiar with, such as the IPV4, the watts basically equal the joules setting. Vaping at the 40 joules setting is comparable to vaping at 40 watts.
Nickel (Ni) and Titanium (Ti) coils are typically wrapped to very low resistances and should never be used in a vaporizer that doesn’t have a Temperature Control Vaping feature. Nickel (Ni) and Titanium (Ti) coils should never be dry fired for extended periods of time, although pulsing the coil intermittently in Temperature Control Mode can be done with relative safety. Nickel (Ni) and Titanium (Ti) coils should never be used in Variable Voltage or Variable Wattage Mode (VV/VW) on any vaporizer. Always make sure you install properly rated batteries for a vaporizer that features removable batteries.
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Best TC Vape Kits
Best TC Vape Mods
Best TC Vape Tanks
Download PDF version of the tutorial
2016-02-25 19:56:29 -0600
2016-01-21 14:30:00 -0600
Tutorial: Guide to Temperature Control Vaping
2016-02-25 19:56:29 -0600
2016-01-21 14:30:00 -0600
GuideGuides and TipsTCTTemperature ControlTutorial